Stray off the beaten path on the upper reaches of Western Kenya

And you’ll discover the mountain shared by Kenya and Uganda, rare wildlife and wild plants plus a bit of history in the struggle for freedom

Above: Mount Elgon. Copyright Maya Mangat

Published: The East African magazine – Nation media 6 April 2019

Western Kenya’s most famous landmark is Victoria the great African lake shared by three countries – Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania. Huge like an inland sea, the world’s second largest freshwater lake was unknown to the outside world except for the Arab slave traders who kept the route a secret and told little of the lake. Then came the tide of change and European explorers smitten with the Nile’s origins coursed the land and in 1858 John Hanning Speke standing on the lake’s shores near modern day Jinja and took a guess to state it as the Nile’s source.

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The waterbus, Lake Victoria. Copyright Rupi Mangat

But apart from this African great lake that the locals of the time called Nyanza, there’s interesting stuff up north. Like the great big mountain that straddles Uganda and Kenya. If you get to the caldera, you can have a foot in each country. Ancient and weathered – this extinct shield volcano is dated 24 million years (whereas Lake Victoria is only half a million years old) but stunningly chiselled by the winds of so many centuries.

views from mount elgon copyright maya mangat dec 2018 (800x450)
Views from Elephant Platform – Mount Elgon. Copyright Maya Mangat

It’s a great mountain to explore if you’re into hiking, nature and all that. Or if you just want to see something new. The two famous landmarks on the mountains are the elephant-chiselled tunnel called Kitum. These amazing tuskers come to scratch out the salt in the walls of the tunnel. However a few years ago huge boulders tumbled down and blocked part of the entrance. When l first wandered into the pitch dark cave 20 years ago, it had a huge mouth. But there’s still some space left for you to walk in – better with a guide and a strong torch. A waterfall guards the entrance and you can wander down the nature trail.

wild flowers on endebess cliff mount elgon copyright maya mangat dec 2018 (800x450)
Wild flowers on Endebess cliff on Mount Elgon. Copyright Maya Mangat

Like l said don’t rush your trip to this mountain because if you’re really energetic you have to get to the caldera and Koitobos a flat-topped basalt column which is the highest peak on the Kenyan side at 13,852 feet. Any reasonably fit person can do this hike from last driveable spot – it’s six kilometres up along mountain plants like groundsels and lobelias including those with the ‘only found on Mount Elgon’ tag. Botanists will love this.

Saiwa Swamp National Park

Sitatunga in saiwa Swamp Copyright Maya Mangat
Sitatunga in Saiwa Swamp National Park. Copyright Maya Mangat

Once off the mountain, drive up north to Kenya’s smallest national park that’s just a swamp but not just any swamp. Measuring 2.9 square kilometres, it’s home to the very endangered swamp-loving antelope called the sitatunga. Some 70 years ago, it was found in the swamps lining Lake Victoria and the rivers that flowed in (Kagera from Rwanda and Nzoia) and out of it (i.e. the Nile). With its water-resistant coat and played out hooves, it lived a pretty comfortable life until swamps got cleared (and hunted for the pot) that it found itself without a home – save for Saiwa in Kenya and a few other glades. Spend a night in the park and you’ll be nicely rewarded with a sight of the swamp antelope. During the day, it hides in the thickets so you may not see any. And you can treat yourself with a night in the tree house above the swamp – increasing your chances of spotting the sitatunga.

saiwa swamp from tree house copyright maya mangat (800x450)


Done with the swamp, drive on north some 40 minutes on a good tarmac road to this once little-known tiny dot on the map which was perfect for the colonial government to send its wayward charges for trials far from the masses. It shot to fame for the trial of the Kapenguria Six – that is Jomo Kenyatta, Bildad Kaggia,  Kungu KarumbaFred KubaiPaul Ngei and Ramogi Achieng Oneko who were held here and put on trial in 1952/3. The cells of the freedom fighters are part of the museum including documents of the trial. The galleries show the Pokot people’s culture – and forest snakes like the Gabon and rhinocerous vipers.

You have the option to drive back and get to Kakamega forest which is the only bit of an ancient rainforest left in Kenya and treat yourself to a few nights at Rondo Retreat and then continue to Kisumu on the shores of Lake Victoria.

On Cherangany hills road looking at Turkwel Dam in the distance. Copyright Mayai Mangat
On Cherangany hills road looking at Turkwel Dam in the distance. Copyright Mayai Mangat

Or drive further into the northern frontiers along the Cherangani Hills that winds its way along the Morunyi River and spend a couple of days at the Maarich Pass Field Study Centre. There’s tons to do from here like hiking up the hills and watching the Pokot pan for gold.

And if you’re really up to it, get to the world’s largest permanent lake in a desert  – Lake Turkana. The thing is that it’s 250 kilometers long and the north east is totally different from the North West while the southern end is again different.

Words of Wisdom

For accommodation log on to the Kenya Wildlife Service. It has comfortable guest houses and campsites in the parks. Carry your food and camping gear. Campers will also enjoy Barnleys Guest House north of Saiwa. Drive a good four-wheel drive car, have your ID card on you otherwise you can’t enter the parks…and enjoy your road trip.

Don’t limit yourself to this – it’s only a nudge to get you exploring.



A Collection From the Old Days at Kitale Museum

Above: The dinosaur at Kitale Museum. Copyright Rupi Mangat

Published: 9 February 2019

The Maasai of old called it Ol Doinyo Ilgoon which morphed into Mount Elgon that frames the town of Kitale. By a stretch of imagination, the Maasai saw its shape as that of a woman’s breast.

Mount Elgon from Kitale Copyright Rupi Mangat for one time use only - 9 Feb 2019 article on Kitale Museum (800x450)
Mount Elgon from Kitale. Copyright Rupi Mangat

Continue reading “A Collection From the Old Days at Kitale Museum”

On The Heights of Elgon

Above: Mount Elgon. Copyright Maya Mangat

Published: 2 February 2019

The grand massif dominates the western skyline around Kitale. Superlatives describe it as the oldest extinct volcano in East Africa dated at 24 million years ago – much older than the 19,340-foot tall, three-million-year old Kilimanjaro that is Africa’s tallest.

With an eighty kilometre diameter, Elgon also boasts the largest volcanic base in the world. It would have once towered over Kilimanjaro but over millennia much of it has been eroded to leave behind dramatic bare faced cliffs and peaks with the highest, Wagagai at 14,177 feet in Uganda. Elgon now is East Africa’s fourth and Africa’s eighth highest mountain with a dramatic 40-square-kilometre caldera.

wild flowers on endebess cliff mount elgon copyright maya mangat dec 2018 (800x450)

Wild flowers on Endebess cliff on Mount Elgon. Copyright Maya Mangat

Continue reading “On The Heights of Elgon”

Kapenguria’s Famous Address: The Kapenguria Museum

Above: Kapenguria Museum – The Heroes Cells of the Kapenguria Six on trial. Copyright Maya Mangat 

Published: 19 January 2019

We’re at Barnley’s farm near Saiwa Swamp famous for its rare herd of sitatunga, the marsh-loving antelope with its water-repellent coat and splayed hooves when we learn that the road from Kitale to Kapenguria and beyond is now smooth as silk. It has the mind wandering to a destination that we hadn’t planned on doing because until recently the un-tarmacked road was treacherous despite the short distance.

Kapenguria Museum - the Heroes Cell of the Kapenguria Six. Copyright Maya Mangat
Kapenguria Museum – the Heroes Cell of the Kapenguria Six. Copyright Maya Mangat

Kapenguria was the place in the 1950s that the colonial government saw fit to have the famous freedom fighters arrested and tried in a place that boasted a path for a road minus any modern amenity like electricity and running water. Continue reading “Kapenguria’s Famous Address: The Kapenguria Museum”